A New Twist on "Old-Vine"

A while back I asked readers to share their views on the meaning (or, more accurately, the lack of meaning) of the term "old-vine." Is there any point to putting it on wine labels if there's no legal definition? For some vintners, old-vine might mean 15 years old; for others it could mean 80. Who's to say? No, I'm not about to rehash the whole drama: I actually have something new to add to the discussion.

While researching my February "Marketing Matters" column for Wines & Vines, I conducted an online survey of California vintners to find out where they stand on the issue, and received 172 resonses. Here's what I found out:

• 71% believe the term "old-vine" should be regulated (this was surprising to me--I thought everyone was fed up with rules!)
• When asked how old an "old-vine" vineyard should be, 63% chose 50 years old as the minimum legal age, while 28% chose 20 years old as the legal minimum.
• 39% of survey participants who said they their wines as "old-vine" said their "old-vine" vineyards are only 15-49 years old. (So what happened to that 50-year minimum?)

Of course, the real question is: What do wine-drinkers think the term means? Do they care? I did a little online survey for that too:

• More than half of the people who responded had no idea that there's no legal definition of "old-vine."
• Most (84%) said they don't think "old-vine" wines are any better than younger-vine wines (take that, wine marketers!). Even so, 63% said they think there should be a legal definition of the term.

W&V subscribers can read the full story online. In the meantime, I'll pour myself a tasty glass of Beaujolais Nouveau.

Comments

[Gabriella Opaz]

As I was pondering your article, I just so happened to come across a Rioja label that says this: "Hemos elaborado este vino con las uvas de las viejas cepas de nuestras vinas. We hve made this wine from old vine grapes of our vineyards." In old world vines, this could translate to 80 year old vines, but in new world, this could mean 30. I'd say regulation is absolutely needed just just so that we have a baseline as to what "old" means in your region. Great article!!

[Mark V Marino]

It is just amazing how many people have come out with an old vine Zinfandel as of late. Old vines are anything but rare these days. I had a wine maker friend point out that all vines are from cutting so most are a couple of hundred years old when planted, he wants to grow some from seed which is akin to growing apples form seed very genetically unstable thus the vines vary widely, but if you do a big enough group you could come up with some thing extraordinary!